The Danube Delta

The Danube Delta is an area of outstanding natural beauty. It was also frequently fought over, from Trajan to the many Russo-Ottoman Wars. we started at Brăila, which was a key Ottoman fortress on the Danube. Sadly, there is little to see of the old fortress, although they have remembered Trajan.

There is a modern bridge crossing the Danube at Braila, which leads to Mǎcin. The Battle of Măcin, Russo-Ottoman War (1787–1792), was fought on 9 July 1791. A Russian army of 30,000 led by Prince Nicholas Repnin, against 80,000 Ottomans, led by Koca Yusuf Pasha. Kutuzov made his name here with a flanking move around the town. The site of the old fort gives a decent view of the river and the battlefield.

From there we stopped off at the favoured Ottoman river crossing at Isaccea. This is the modern border with Ukraine. The Ottoman presence is not entirely forgotten with many towns having a mosque.

Tulcea is another Ottoman fortress town, although today it is a largely industrial centre. There is a fine vantage point at the Heroes Monument. In the distance with the smoke rising is the old Ottoman fortress of Ismail. Captured by Suvorov in 1790. It is in Ukraine so the smoke may not be industrial.

The best castles in Romania are in Transylvania. However, there is Enisala, probably built originally by the Genoese, but added to by the Tatars and Ottomans. It is near the town of Babadag, ​Today a quiet rural town. In 1790 it was the Ottoman HQ, and there would typically be around 60,000 troops camped here.