Moldavia

Moldavia, not to be confused with the modern country Moldova, was formally a separate state, now part of Romania. The first stop on this tour was the Battle of Rymnik, 22 September 1789. A Russo-Austrian army defeated the Ottomans under Grand Vizier Cenaze Hasan Pasha. There is a fine statue of the Russian commander, Suvorov, overlooking the battlefield. He was moved from the original site closer to where he crossed the river during the battle. The original plinth is still there. There was an earlier battle in this war north of the town of Focșani. However, the modern town has expanded to cover the Ottoman trenches, along with drainage, etc. So there is nothing to see.

This area is known as the Focșani Gap, stretching from the Carpathians to the Danube. A series of 19th fortifications originally as a defence against Russian invasion but had to be reversed in WW1. This was Romania’s last stand and there is a fine mausoleum for the dead and a small museum at Mărășești.

There are other options for visits before reaching the regional capital at Iasi. These include a castle at Tirgu Neamt, another at Suceava, and the site of the Ottoman victory over the Moldavians at Razboieni in 1476. At Targu Frumos, in April and May 1944, German and Romanian forces, particularly Hasso von Manteuffel's Großdeutschland Panzergrenadier division, held off a massive Soviet attack. A model of mobile defence studied to this day. Isasi is a good place to stay and has some fine 19th century architecture. There is a museum, but it was closed on the day we visited.

South of Iasi is the town of Vaslui. ​South of the town is the site of The Battle of Vaslui, 10 January 1475, between Stephen III of Moldavia and the Ottoman governor of Rumelia, Hadım Suleiman Pasha. The Moldavians won a great victory and this is reflected in the massive monument. There iare also models of Moldavian castles.

You have to use a lot of imagination for the next stop. This is near Stanilesti in Moldavia on the Prut River where Peter the Great was outmanoeuvred by the Ottoman Grand Vizier Baltacı Mehmet Pasha. Sadly, unlike Vaslui, no monument, not even a paved road. The Ottomans won!