Moldova

Moldova is one of smallest and probably least visited countries in the Balkans. You can fly into the capital Chisinau, from several European airports. The editor went with Turkish Airlines from Edinburgh to Istanbul and then a flight change to Chisinau. It also gives an excuse for a stopover in Istanbul, one of the world's great cities. Moldova is not cheap to get to, and western products like car hire are expensive. However, hotels and restaurants are very good value. The people are very friendly and welcome tourism.

Chisinau has a lovely, and lively city centre, based around the cathedral and its park.

It has two museums of interest to history buffs: The National History Museum and the Military Museum. The History Museum has some undeserved reviews online, which is unfair. It has a fine range of exhibits in an elegant building. 

The Military Museum is 'old-school' but has a fine collection of Soviet-era artillery, armour and aircraft outside, and chronological displays inside. 

We took a trip to the breakaway region of Transnistria, officially known as the Pridnestrovian Moldavian Republic, since a short war in 1991/2. There is a Foreign Office Advisory about visiting this region, so we took a guided tour with a local firm. This is great added value as their knowledge really improved to the trip. The main historical site is the Ottoman fortress at Bender. This has been magnificently reconstructed. The capital is Tiraspol. Founded by Suvorov, his statue dominates the city centre. The city is a bit of a Soviet-era time capsule, and a pretty unique experience.

We then hired a car and drove to southern Moldavia. Primarily to visit the battlefields at Kagul and Larga. There is a monument to the largest 18th century battle in Europe and a nearby local history museum in Vulcanistra. There is nothing to see at Larga but the city of Cahul has a few monuments. We only passed through, but you can also visit Gagauzia, an autonomous territorial unit of Moldova. Its autonomy is intended for the local Gagauz people, a Turkic-speaking, primarily Orthodox Christian ethnic group.

Driving north the next day you can visit Soroca, which has a stunning castle and monuments. This is on the Dniester River and the border with Ukraine. Thankfully peaceful when we visited. This region was also the site of the Jassy/Kishinev offensive in 1944.